April 29, 2025, Ponferrada

It was a long grueling walk today, you would think that downhill would be easier, but it was steep and loose rocky shale in many parts. When I started to write this I could not remember what city I was in as I am that tired. I was wrong that yesterday would be my hardest day.

The power was back on by 6:00 this morning, by the time I got my electronics recharged, bag packed and had breakfast I didn’t leave Foncebandon until after 8:30.

It was beautiful I I could see all the way to Astorga in the east. The walk west was beautiful and I found myself stopping to take many pictures and everything was just getting more interesting the father I walked.

This morning my first stop would be the Cruz Ferro. The Celts were the first in the region, they erected a pole at the top of the mountain and put an image of their pagan god. When the Roman’s came the put their image is Mercury, their patron of travelers. In the 9 century a Christian hermit took down Mercury and replaced him with an iron cross, hence the name. I have heard and need to confirm that the modern day travel industry moved the Cruz Ferro so that I could be easily reached by tourist bus.

Like so many things on the Camino, you come around the bend and it is just there. The monument is a very important part of the Camino with its own traditions. Pilgrims can bring a stone from home, carry it to the cross and leave it there to lighten their load figuratively as well as actual pack weight. I brought my object and left it. A couple of women took my picture and I took theirs for them. After I probably helped take 4 others pictures. The cross is a beautiful monument, but for me I feel the cross outside of Atapurca was more touching without all the hype.

From there the walk continues uphill the the actual highest point on the Camino. And with that the trail turned downhill and the true work of the day started. Shortly after I came across a private refuge run by one man that may be a modern day hermit. He offered me a stamp for my credential, so I followed him into his homemade structure.

As usual I was passed by Yrt and he was gone. Frank from yesterday came from behind too, he was alone as Irene knew she couldn’t do today’s walk. He and I talked awhile then he was gone too. I came to snack shack and Frank was there, he bought me a coffee, we sat my the fire and compared Camino stories.

Frank was gone and in came Joe and John, I have seen them several times but never got their names. Today we get each other’s names.

I continued down hill, the change in elevation today was to be down 3,500 feet. I got to Al Acebo, I was only half way. Joe and John were at the first cafe having lunch. I ended up joining them, I had a tune empanadas, it tasted fantastic with a coke.

I continued down hill and it was steep, I am very thankful that it was not raining as the trail would be too slippery. At tiles I had to cross water flowing down the trail.

Somewhere on the trail a came upon a Memoral to a 17 year old that had died, it didn’t say if it was while on the Camino, but over the last 10 years people have continued to return to it.

I made the village is Riefo de Ambrose. I almost walked past the Refuge of Saint Sabaston, I stopped for a picture.

Later down the street I ran into 3 ladies from LA resting on a bench, one of them knew a friend in McKinleyville.

Again I continued down hill, winding down the narrow path at time having to traverse the water also following the Camino. Then I made it to Monlinaseca with a couple of women from Michigan. They stopped to soak their feet in the river, I continued to a bar to try to get a liquid refreshment. The bar tender was too busy to be bothered as he was playing cards with his buddies. An older regular from outside came it to get him to help me. I decided I could not do the last 3 miles to Ponferrada, so I called a taxi to get me over the finish line.

Tomorrow is flat 14 miles to Villafranca, after that I plan to shorten my days to 10 moles.