April 30, 2025, Villafranca del Bierzo

Considering how tired I was after yesterday’s walk, I slept really well and when I woke up I was no longer sore. I opted not to have the hotel breakfast and just get on the Camino. When I checked in yesterday, the woman was trying to explain a prettier route out of the city by walking through a park next to the river. Somehow I ended up on it without knowing better. It was all good until I had to hike up a very steep grade to get to the regular route.

Now on the standard route, I walked through a very fancy neighborhood on my way out of town. I hadn’t had breakfast so I was looking for something open. I took a turn to look around a corner and found a small bakery that made sweet items. I left with a cream horn and some cookies for later. In honesty, it was marginal at best.

In my guide book the walk looked gradual until about the 3/4 mark. It was for the most part. I walked through wheat fields, I crossed over a freeway and the trail turned into a gravel country road with vineyards.

I found a regular breakfast in Fuentasnuevas; cheese omelette, coffee con leche and orange juice. I asked the barista to fill my water bottle, she rudely pointed me to the public fountain outside.

Now I walked on to Cacabelos, little more than half way, I wasn’t hungry, but I needed a rest. Additionally, I have been trying to have my main meal around lunchtime. This didn’t workout as

I had hoped, I was trying to ask for a dry white wine, I inadvertently mixed my words up and got a sweet wine. The server forgot to put my order in for my sandwich. By the time I was done I had wasted 75 minutes.

I walked almost the rest of the way with 2 people and their friend that I have seen everyday since Malcolm left, but never spent much time walking together. One had an injured calf muscle so he walked at my speed. We walked a long way towards our destination, before it started to lightly rain. We stopped to put our rain gear on and cover our packs. It wasn’t worth the effort as it didn’t rain much, the energy expelled was enough to take all the wind out of my sail. They walked faster than I so I let them get out ahead. When I made it to town they were sitting in a cafe for some food and drinks. I wished them well, but let them know I was going to go find my hotel.

The rains did get much stronger a couple hours later, I was happily in my room, showered and relaxing. I had eaten enough while walking so I had no intention of leaving the hotel.

I have decided to shorten my daily walk down to approximately 10 miles, 15 plus miles/day just takes a little to much out of me. Tomorrow I walk to Ambasmaestas, just under 10 miles.