May 1, 2025, Ambasmestas

I was very lucky and by chance booked a nice hotel last night, and Villafranca del Bierzo is a very cute little town, but I was too exhausted to do anything; that includes washing my clothes which will definitely happen today.

Ambasmestas was a 9.5 mile walk and since my hotel was on the way out is Villafranca the total walk was a little less. It rained hard last night, but by this morning it was just a memory.

My hotel was directly on the Camino, I started my climb out of the town, and soon enough I saw one of my regular pilgrims.

As it turned out the walk was mostly adjacent to a road that was most likely the highway at one time and the river.

I noticed more pilgrims out walking today, in easly saw 15 pilgrims that I have met over the last 12 days. There were also many on bikes including one young man on a bike way too big for him

The guy with the heavy pack goes by the name of Adam, he is from Poland. He looks dressed for Putin’s invasion, the pack is large and he has a number of things hanging from his belt. He walks fast with the same woman all the time, stopping for regular cigarette breaks.

There was a green alternate route today in my book, it required a 1,200 foot climb so that was out for me.

At 5.6 km I got to Pereje for a quick break of a coffee con leche and an empinata made with chard, pork and potatoes. Wow, it was great and got me ready for the rest of my walk. Entering town was the cemitary, it was small, it Ferndale like.

I saw at least 4 people I knew while having my second breakfast. Maybe one of the things that is good about planning a few short days is the I will meet new people on different walking schedules.

I met Bill from British Columbia walking with Loois from Portugal.

Eventually I made my was to Ambasmetas, too early for my hotel, so I am in the local bar having a sweet vermouth with soda and lemon. Currently I do not see any pilgrims in here and I am the only one not speaking Spanish.

Four men are playing cards and a group in the corner are holding court.

I would say I am witnessing Spanish culture, we have entered the afternoon break time and the cafe/bar is the place people go to get out of the heat, have a drink and see their friends. Just like that they all left at the same time to have a cigarette outside and go continue on with their day.

I continue to see pilgrims filtering by on the road outside the bar.

It was just about 2:00 so I check in at my hotel. This is a very small town, possibly the smallest one. I now know why the locals were at the bar because it is the only thing open in the village. This is not exactly a one goat town as there is a cheese maker here. It would be nice to sample it, it they are most likely at the village bar.

The interesting thing is that the heard is not exactly contained, they could easily make their way into the village bar for a hoove of cards.

My laundry is done and things are drying. I never thought that a travel clothes line would be so important, but I have probably used it 5 times so far.

While hanging my clothes I saw the couple I met a few days back from Phoenix. That day it was just the 2 of them, but this morning I saw them on the trail going very slowly with an elderly lady, 3.5 hours behind me they are just walking though Ambasmestas. I do not know where their final destination will be.

Tonight I will get plenty of rest as there isn’t anything else to do. Tomorrow I am walking a similar distance to O Cenreiro.