May 6, 2023

I knew that when I left town today that I did not have a place to stay waiting for me down the Camino.

The walk started out immediately uphill and continued that way.

I finally reached the top, well that top anyway.  There was a monument to 300 citizens executed there during the Spanish Civil War.  I had been walking with 2 French brothers that I had met at the Alburgue Guadalupe 2 nights before.

As the song goes, “what goes up, must go down”.

But, it must also go back up.  After awhile I came to an area that was called The Oasis, run by a very energetic man.

He is there everyday, except tomorrow because of the rugby finals.  His car had exterior speakers playing upbeat music.  As I left the song was Fifty Ways to Leave Your Lover.

My hope was to find a bed in an alburgue in Ages which was about 10 miles.   

Before Ages I tried for a bed in San Juan De Ortega.  Only the bulls and goats had space.

Maybe there was one at the monastery, but it was only 11:30 am and I would need to wait until 1:00 pm to find out if there was something for a pilgrim without a reservation. 

I stopped in a small bar and had a chicken turnover.  A small bird enjoyed some of my crumbs.

I continued on towards Ages next.

Nothing was to be had in Ages so my next town was Atapuerca, a very small village.  I knew that I was within 15 miles of Burgos, too far for me to walk, but I could find a taxi.

Advertising signage in Spain sometimes offers more than it delivers.  I had struck out at 2 alburgues, but I saw a sign for a hotel with a vague arrow pointing to the right and indicating 150 meters.  I walked around the side streets and found the Hotel Rural.  I tried for a room and found success.

I walked in and inquired, the lady was busy watching the coronation of King Charles, but she helped me.  She dragged it out thinking that I would be negotiating the deal.  She looked at her notebook, explained in Spanglish that it was a shared bathroom.  Her price 40€, she could have had me for a 100€ easy.  I paid, agreed to dinner and she took me to the 3rd floor attic room.  Little short on head room.  The bottom of that beam is below my armpit.

I took a fast shower before other guests arrived.  I inquired about where I could hang my laundry, she offered to wash my clothes for me. I headed back down to town for a light lunch. Ran into Alan from last night and Swenya.  I had a beer with them and some olives.

Back to the hotel for a nap and later to walk up to the church.

The views from the church take in the whole valley.

I headed back to the hotel and was greeted by the hotel dogs.  They kept bringing me their rocks and leaving them on my chair.

I have a good feeling about dinner tonight, there is an outside pizza oven and the “lobby” smells very good.

Dinner was good.  2 other guys asked me to join them.  Both around my age and retired from Silicon Valley, one I had met earlier and within 2 minutes told me how he made so much money that he is retired.  I think I know his issue he needs to work out while on the Camino.  Aside from that they were very nice and conversation was good.

My dinner choice was tortellini with red sauce and the main course was pork cheeks with a red wine sauce and fries.  The pork was similar to alcatra.

Tomorrow I walk to Burgos, after I plan a few days break.